On day two of our getaway to northern Michigan, we planned a day trip for wine tasting and exploring the Old Mission Peninsula. Today, the Old Mission Peninsula is known for wine – there are 11 wineries to visit. But there are also some neat historic sites and beautiful natural and scenic areas to see, which we incorporated into our trip.
This post is part two of a series detailing day trips and adventures you may be interested in taking around the Traverse City Area. Check out part one, on the road trip we took around the Leelanau Peninsula here! And don’t miss part three, the getaway guide to Traverse City here.
~ Old Mission Peninsula History ~
Originally, the Old Mission Peninsula was settled by the Ottawa people. After the Treaty of Washington in 1836, the Federal Government set up a mission and schools throughout Michigan. In exchange, the Ottawa and other local tribes ceded nearly 14 million acres of land in northwestern lower Michigan and much of the Upper Peninsula. In 1838, the original mission in northwestern Michigan was set up by Reverend Peter Dougherty, a Presbyterian minister.
Twenty years later, the mission moved from the Old Mission Peninsula to Omena on the Leelanau Peninsula. Rev Dougherty presided over this church too, until it ran into financial difficulties and closed in 1871.
Around the Civil War, an influx of settlers moved to the peninsula and discovered it was the perfect macroclimate for growing a variety of fruits and vegetables. The most common produce grown early on were apples, cherries, and potatoes.
Then in the 1970’s Edward O’Keefe Jr planted the first wine grapes on the Old Mission Peninsula – grapes used for producing chardonnay, pinot noir and reisling. O’Keefe went on to found Chateau Grand Traverse – the first winery on the peninsula.
Finally in 1987, after an increase in grape growing, wine production, and winery establishment, the Old Mission Peninsula received its AVA designation. Today there are 11 wineries on the Old Mission Peninsula!
~ Exploring the Old Mission Peninsula Map~
~ Exploring the Old Mission Peninsula Summary ~
When: Saturday in winter – although this day trip can easily be enjoyed any time of year!
Why: After spending one day of our Traverse City getaway exploring the Leelanau Peninsula, on the second day, we decided to check out the Old Mission Peninsula. The Old Mission Peninsula is known for growing excellent wine, but there are also beautiful natural areas to explore.
Time Traveled (one way): 2 hours from Grand Rapids, 4 hours from Detroit, 3 hours from Kalamazoo, 3 hours from Lansing, 10 minutes from downtown Traverse City
Time Spent at Destination: 5 hours
Budget: $$ – wine tasting & snacks, a couple bottles here & there
What we did during our Day Trip:
We began our day at Chateau Chantel with a 12:15pm igloo reservation to enjoy our tastings. Then we continued up the Old Mission Peninsula to Two Lads to purchase some wine. Midway through our day trip, we stopped at Mission Point Lighthouse on the tip of the peninsula.
By 3pm, we were at Tabone Vineyards to enjoy our outdoor guided wine tasting and charcuterie board. The final winery we enjoyed during the trip was Bowers Harbor. Before heading back to our Airbnb, we took pictures of the sunset on the West Grand Traverse Bay from the Center Road Scenic Overlook.
Other Things to Explore on the Old Mission Peninsula:
Wineries Open Year Round: In addition to the winery’s we visited, there are several others open year round such as Black Star Farms Old Mission, Peninsula Cellars, Chateau Grand Traverse (currently online sales, retail, and curbside pickup only), Brys Estate, Mari Vineyards, and Bonobo Winery.
Wineries Only Open in the Warmer Months: Hawthorne Vineyards
Gardens & Flowers: If planning a summer visit, check out the Secret Garden at Brys Estate. Here there are lavender fields, a gift shop, and other seasonal perennial flower gardens. Then there is also Harbor View Nursery & Lavender Farm. In addition to their garden & shop, they offer group classes like lavender wreath making.
Historic Places: Some historically significant sites on the Old Mission Peninsula include the Dougherty Mission House and Old Mission Point Park containing an historic church.
Trails: Even though the peninsula is covered in vineyards and orchards, there are still some nature preserves with hiking trails. These preserves are Pelizzari Natural Area, Pyatt Lake: The Bill Carls Nature Preserve, and Brinkman Bog Nature Preserve.
Parks: Bowers Harbor Park has playgrounds, recreational sport facilities, grills and picnic tables.
Beach: Haserot Beach contains the only public beach on Old Mission Peninsula outside of Old Mission Point.
Boat Launch: Bowers Harbor Boat Launch
Overlooks: Enjoy the view of East Grand Traverse Bay from the Archie Roadside Park.
Restaurants: Enjoy a bite to eat at Jolly Pumpkin Restaurant and Brewery, Peninsula Grill, or Boathouse Restaurant.
~ Exploring the Old Mission Peninsula Details ~
Chateau Chantel
The first stop of the day trip was Chateau Chantel where we had at igloo reservation. This winery is on top of a hill with beautiful views of both East and West Grand Traverse Bay on either side. With a classic French countryside feel to it, Chateau Chantel is also home to a bed and breakfast.
History of Chateau Chantel
Founders Robert and Nadine Begin first planted Chateau Chantel’s vineyards in 1986. Between then and 1991, they continued expanding the vineyard until 1993 when their then-three room B&B, winery and vineyard finished construction. In total, Chateau Chantel is on 65 acres. They focus on wine varieties that grow well in Michigan including Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, and other varietals.
Interestingly, before Robert and Nadine got into the wine and hospitality industry, they were both part of the Catholic Church – Robert as a priest and Nadine as a nun.
Wine Tasting at Chateau Chantel
Reservations? Here you may enjoy a wine tasting from a table outside (up to 48 hour advance reservations) or reserve an igloo, which can seat up to 6 people inside.
How it works – We reserved an igloo about 3 weeks before our trip. After we arrived and checked in at the winery, we were directed to the bar to grab our flights. On a busy day, there are four pre-designed flights to choose from: a sweet, dry, bubbly, or reserve dry flight. Each flight gets you three wine tastings and costs $10. On less busy day’s, they allow you to chose three tastings.
Cost – It costs $60 to reserve an igloo. The igloo comes with wine tastings or a glass of wine for up to four people.
Wine’s I tried – Proprietor’s Reserve Dry Wine Pre-arranged flight – PR Pinot Gris, PR Pinot Noir, & PR Trio – all three are oak aged. Plus a glass of their ‘Entice.’
My personal wine recommendation? After sampling the Entice, aka Chateau Chantal’s version of ice wine fortified with grape oak aged brandy, I’m impressed! Most ice wine’s I’ve tasted seem thick and syrupy – but this was smooth, tasty and thin. It also had more flavor beyond just ‘sweet.’ I recommend giving it a try!
Overall impression – Lucky us! Our igloo was the only igloo on the west side of the building so we enjoyed our tasting completely alone. Just us and that gorgeous view. As you can see from the photos, we took full advantage and enjoyed taking some fun pictures too!
2 Lads Winery
Stop number two was 2 Lads Winery, a little further north of Chateau Chantel. While 2 Lads is currently not doing tastings due to Covid, they are open for bottle sales so we decided to stop and buy a bottle. This winery is sleek and modern. Inside the winery, there is a large glass window behind the bar with views looking down and over the bay.
After we entered the winery, we were greeted and informed about the wines 2 Lads produces and sells. The gentleman guiding us on the wines was extremely helpful and answered all of our questions. While here, I purchased a bottle of the Sparkling Pinot Grigio. What can I say, the tall, slim bottle totally sold me!
History of 2 Lads Winery
2 Lads was started by, well, two lads – Chris Baldyga and Cornel Olivier – who met while working at Chateau Grand Traverse in 1999. Olivier moved on to become a winemaker at Brys Estate. A native of South Africa, Olivier dreamed of making quality red wines on the Old Mission Peninsula and started doing so at Brys.
The two then invested in an old cherry orchard on the Old Mission Peninsula and replanted the area with grapevines. They also focused heavily on the soil’s health – not relying on traditionally overused pesticides, herbicides or fertilizers. Instead they rely on cover crops and other natural ways to improve the soils fertility.
Compared to the other Old Mission wineries, 2 Lads is known on the Peninsula for their red wines and bubbles. Give their sparkling pinot grigio, reserve merlot and one of their pinot noir’s a try sometime!
Mission Point Lighthouse
The Lighthouse
At the top of the Old Mission Peninsula we spent time at the Lighthouse Park where there is the Mission Point Lighthouse and Hessler Log Cabin. While the interior of the lighthouse (and museum) is closed during the winter, it’s easy to appreciate its beauty by walking around it.
The Old Mission Lighthouse was built in 1970, ten years after the US Congress appropriated funds for its construction. Its construction was held up due to the Civil War. Built exactly the same as the once Mama Juda Island Lighthouse, the lighthouse has six rooms on the main floor, and a bedroom and supply room on the second floor.
Between 1970 and 1933, seven commissioners lived and worked out of the Old Mission Lighthouse. In 1906, Sarah Lane became the keeper, the only female lighthouse keeper of this lighthouse, after her husband passed away. When he was alive, they both shared the responsibility. Then in 1933, the Lighthouse was decommissioned and replaced with an automatic buoy light.
Today the Old Mission Lighthouse is on the State and National Historic Registries. A unique program offered by this lighthouse is it’s Lighthouse Keeper Program. For $200 a week, you and one other adult of your choice can apply to live and work at the Old Mission Lighthouse. Responsibilities include basic cleaning and maintenance tasks as well as running the gift shop and museum during the summer months.
Hessler Log Cabin
Another structure quickly spotted on the way to the Lighthouse from the parking lot is the Hessler Log Cabin. This Michigan historic site was originally built by immigrants Joseph and Mary Hessler in the mid 1850s. After obtaining their citizenship in 1859, they purchased land on the Old Mission Peninsula.
Once the Hesslers moved on, the log cabin was used for storage or temporary housing and maintained. After receiving its historic designation, the log cabin moved to its current site in Lighthouse Park.
Activities at Lighthouse Park
All around the lighthouse are hiking trails or beachfront as part of the Lighthouse Park. Cross country skiing and snowshoeing are a popular activity during the winter. This area is also a popular location to kayak for those wishing to be out on the water.
Nearby the front of the lighthouse there is a swing set right in the sand. My husband decided to take Winston for a ride – Winston’s first time on a big swing. As you may notice in the photo above, Winston loved it! He laughed the entire time!
On the backside of the lighthouse is a sign that points out both the lighthouse and 45th Parallel. Because we weren’t able to stop at the 45th Parallel Park on the Leelanau Peninsula, we luckily were able to get our photo with the sign on the Old Mission!
Tabone Vineyards
The third winery we visited is Tabone Vineyards. This winery is the newest winery to open up on the Old Mission Peninsula. Before deciding to open the winery, owner Mario Tabone and his family grew grapes on their 30 acre property and sold them to local wineries. Now, Tabone uses its own grapes to produce small batch wines such as Riesling, Chardonnay, and Pinot Gris.
While here, we noticed a red cross all over their winery, on their bottles, and everywhere! Turns out Mario and his family are of Maltese ancestry and this is the Maltese Cross.
Reservations? There are reservations available via Tock, which is what we used. Walk in’s are allowed when there is availability.
How it works – We prebooked our reservation two weeks before our trip. While setting up our reservation, we chose to pre-order what we wanted. Each of us ordered a 5 small pour guided wine tasting and charcuterie board to split. Once seated at our table, we chose which 5 samples of wine to try.
Cost – The guided 5 small pour samples cost $10 each. While the charcuterie board cost $18.
Wine’s I tried – 2019 Dry Bubbly Riesling, 2017 Semi-Sweet Pinot Gris, 2018 Reserve Red Wine, 2017 ‘Barrel Strength’ Chardonnay, & Hot Mulled Wine
My personal wine recommendation? 2018 Reserve Red Wine which uses the grapes grown right next to the outdoor seating area. After harvest, the grapes are taken into the building attached to the tasting room and processed into wine. It’s fun to see the wine’s lifecycle right in front of you! Plus it tastes delicious!
Overall impression – Very impressed! The wine and service were unparalleled. Despite the pandemic, the staff made ever effort to make us feel welcome and helped.
Bowers Harbor
Next up was Bowers Harbor, one mile south of Tabone. Before becoming a vineyard, the land Bowers Harbor sits on was a horse farm. Then in 1991, Erica Stegenga and her son Spenser along with his family planted the first grapevines, thus establishing the Bowers Harbor Vineyards. The first three types of grapes they planted are used to make Gewurztraminer, Riesling and Chardonnay.
In total there are 5 blocks of vineyards on 20 acres. Bowers Harbor grows Riesling, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Grigio, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon varietals. Their Pinot Grigio is the number one selling Michigan made Pinot Grigio. In addition to wine, Bowers Harbor sells several different rotating cider flavors.
Reservations? We made reservations a week in advance on Tock. The reservations were free to make.
How it works – Bowers Harbor set up an outdoor pavilion for their wine tastings. Follow the walkway beside the building towards the vineyard then turn right. It is a big open air tent. Once you check in and purchase your prearranged wine sample, they provide you with your table number and directions.
Cost – A prearranged flight of 5 wines cost $24. The size of each tasting was about double what Tabone poured for us.
Wine’s I tried – I selected the Harvest preselected flight. This included the Stone House Sparkling, Unwooded Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Riesling Medium Dry, and Gerwurztraminer Wind Whistle.
My personal wine recommendation? My favorite wine is Gewurztraminer, and Bowers Harbor makes a delicious one!
Overall impression – This winery was the busiest of the three we visited, and they could have done a little better at keeping up with the cleanliness. The table we were directed to still had leftover glasses on it from the previous tasting. So we had to call someone over to clear the table and sanitize it which was a little tricky carrying flight towers and watching a little one. Once we sat down, things were fine. From our location, we enjoyed watching the sun start to set!
Center Road Scenic Overlook
Our final stop of the day was the Center Road Scenic Overlook. This overlook is on top of a hill with an easy pull off if you’re traveling southbound on Center Road. If you time it up just right, this location is an excellent spot to stop and enjoy the sunset before headed back to town.
~~~
The Old Mission Peninsula is an excellent spot to explore on a day trip. Being much smaller than the Leelanau Peninsula, it’s a shorter length to travel. However, it sure packs in a number of awesome sites to check out – wineries, historic sites, and natural, scenic areas abound! If you’re a Michigander or are planning a trip to Michigan, be sure to add the Old Mission Peninsula to your bucket list!
from Michigan with Love,
Jackie
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